Freeman's Marsh is an area of common land to the west of Hungerford. It fulfils the same purpose for the Sanden Fee Commoners as the Common Port Down does for its Commoners of the Town.
The boundaries have varied over the centuries, but in the present-day it comprises about 90 acres (41 hectares) of permanent pasture, marsh and bog. At times land was added, and at other times land was lost to the canal and the railway.
- Freeman's Marsh, looking south-east towards Marsh Gate, c1912. [A. Parsons].
- The marsh and canal [E. Barnard].
- Works on Freeman's Marsh, Jan 1986 [Ivor Speed].
- Marsh Lock, Freeman's Marsh, Jul 1996 [Ivor Speed].
- The Ash Pool, Freeman's Marsh, Jul 1996 [Ivor Speed].
- Strongrove Cottages, Freeman's Marsh, Jan 1996 [Ivor Speed].
- Freeman's Marsh, Aug 2008
- Freeman's Marsh, Aug 2008
- Polecat near Cobbler's Lock, 30 Jun 2008
- Mute Swans 1 Sep 2008
- Yearling 14 Aug 2008
- Kingfisher 20 May 2010
- Southern Marsh Orchids, 8 Jun 2009
- Adult grass snake on Freeman's Marsh 26 Jul 2008
- Glossy Ibis on Freeman's Marsh, 9 Dec 2010 (by Jerry Woodham)
- The Glossy Ibis (above) is not the first rare bird to be seen on Freeman's Marsh! From the NWN 3 Nov 1904: "Mr Leonard Cundall, of The Orchard, Hungerford, shot a peculiar bird which proved to be a Northern Diver. It inhabits arctic regions and migrates to Britain's northern coasts in the winter."
- A pair of Chinese Swan Geese on Freeman's Marsh, 4 May 2011
- Strongrove Cottages from Hungerford Marsh, 1904. [Wyndham Series "W8642"]
- Strongrove Cottage (?1960s)
- Working on the Ash Pool on Freeman's Marsh, Jan 1985 [Ivor Speed].
- St. Lawrence's Church from Freeman's Marsh, Jul 1992.
- The Ash Pool, Jul 1992.
- Cobbler's Lock Cottage, Nov 2015
- Lock Cottage at Cobbler's Lock after restoration, 25th March 2022
- Lock Cottage, 30th April 2022
The names of the marsh:
The origin of the name "Freeman's Marsh" is not clear. Freeman's Marsh has been known by a variety of names over the centuries. The names include:
- Freeman's Marsh
- Hopgrass Marsh
- The Marsh
The properties lying along the lane leading to the Marsh have also had various names:
- Marsh Lane
- Marsh Gate
Norman Hidden's notes include some jottings on the topic. He started with studying all references to the Marsh (in its various forms) in the parish registers for Hungerford and Froxfield. (See References to The Marsh in Parish Registers).
Between 1822-1830, all references were to Freeman's Marsh. After this date, a variety creeps in:
- 1830 Wakefields are in Marsh Lane,
- 1832 Fishlocks are in Hopgrass Marsh
- 1833 Wakefields are in Freeman's Marsh Gate
- 1838 Dobsons are in Marsh Gate
- 1838 Ann Farmer is in Hungerford Marsh
- 1839 Fields are in The Marsh
The choice of nomenclature seems indisciminate.
Note also, Coroners' Bills 1752-1796 (Wilts Dec Soc) contains a reference (no 1406) 30 Apr 1784 to Freeman's Marsh in Charnham Street - Mary Platt died in her house of infirmity.
The earliest mention of Freeman's Marsh:
The first mention by this name was in a survey by the Duchy of Lancaster of c1552, which described it as "a common marsh called Freeman's Marsh belonging as well to the town of Hungerford as to the fee of Sanden, containing by estimate 6 acres". By 1568 (the 11th year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth I) it was reported that "there being 20 acres or thereabouts".
There was a case in the Duchy of Lancaster Court in the 11th year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth I (1568/9) brought by the inhabitants of Hungerford against one Brian Gunter when again there was mention that it was 20 acres of grazing for geldings and nags belonging to Commoners of both Hungerford and Sanden Fee.
In the James I feoffment of 1617, the tithing of the Liberty of Sanden Fee was not mentioned, nor was the land known as Freeman's Marsh. The feoffment spoke of the Borough and Manor of Hungerford, and it is thought that the Sanden Fee tithing was by then part of Hungerford Manor.
By 1803 (in the case of Webb v Salisbury in the King's Bench) the Marsh had increased in size to 45 acres 2 rods and 18 poles including the area occupied by the Kennet & Avon canal - 23 acres was taken by the canal and 22 acres of feeding land and 33 poles of "water and bogge".
The Enclosure Award in 1819 added 21 acres, 2 rods, 24 poles of arable land in Westbrook Field "for the grazing of nags". This area is shown on the 1819 Enclosure map as "North Westbrooks", and is the area to the south of the canal. On 1st March 1637 Edmund Sexton, a tanner, from Hungerford assigned in consideration of £5. 0. 0d a half acre of arable land in the Common Fields of Hungerford called West Brooks to Jeremy Eyrton, fell monger of Hungerford which had previously, on 4th October 1622 been leased to William Atkins of Hungerford, fell monger, for two thousand years, at a rent of one penny per annum. Atkins assigned the lease to William Wayte, a tanner, who died. Sexton married Alice his widow and thus came into the possession of the lease.
In 1974 the Trustees of the Town and Manor purchased 7¼ acres of pasture from the neighbouring estate of North Standen, owned then by Lord Rootes. This was a land-locked area of pasture in the south west corner of the Marsh. A bargain was struck for the abandonment of the land south of the railway known as Pennyquicks and the stream in it, and extinguishment of the Commoners Rights. "Rootes Meadow" was added to the Marsh.
The area is grazed by 30-35 store cattle each year, and although it is technically without Commoners Rights, the grazing by all cattle is overseen by the Trustees.
It is well know for its rich diversity of flora and fauna, and much enjoyed by local walkers and bird-watchers. It is crossed by the river Dun, as well as the Kennet and Avon canal (built here c1800) and the railway (extended west from Hungerford in 1862). At the eastern end the Shalbourne Brook joins the River Dun flowing eastwards towards the town through the adjacent meadow known in recent times as Hungerford Marsh.
An old road crossed the marsh leading from the town along Church Street, then Marsh Lane, and onto the marsh at marsh gate. The way can still be seen, crossing the canal near marsh lock, and then the ford near Marsh Cottage soon merging with the route of the modern A4.
Marsh lock is unique on the Kennet and Avon Canal - the only lock to have a swing bridge directly over the centre of the lock that must be opened before the lock may be used. A crossing had to be provided at this point because the canal engineers were not granted permission to re-route the path around the lock. This reflects the high regard in which public rights of way were held at time (c.1799). The lock has a rise/fall of 8 ft 1 in (2.46 m).
Dr. Jimmy Whittaker adds "In 2015 the bridge was closed for essential maintenance. This bridge is CRT No. 86. There is an old triangular cast iron plate attached to the bridge with details of weighting limits. It reads:
Notice. This bridge is insufficient to carry a heavy motor car. The registered axle weight of any axle of which exceeds four tons or the registered axle weights of the several axles of which exceed in the aggregate seven tons or a heavy motor car drawing a trailer if the registered axle weights of the several axles of a heavy motor car and the axle weight of the several axles of the trailer exceed in the aggregate 12 tons fast. London and North Western and Great Western joint railways Paddington station, London.
There is also a modern red and white warning sign which reads “3Tm.gw”."
The River Dun:
The River Dun forms parts of the Hungerford Fishery, and the Commoners of Hungerford have the right to fish the water, but the Commoners of Sanden Fee do not have the right to fish the Kennet. It is said that in mediaeval times the Sanden Fee Commoners got into financial difficulties and were bailed out by the stronger Town Commoners and therefore were obliged to give up some of their historical rights. This remains the situation today.
Wink Walter's footbridge: In Nov 1981 more than 50 people gathered at the dedication ceremony for the footbridge across a stream of the River Dun near Hopgrass, provided by the Walter family in memory of 'Wink' Walter, who lived on the marsh for many years, and who lost his life at Arnhem as a member of the 10th parachute Brigade in Sep 1944. See "Tribute paid to a brave man", NWN Nov 1981.
Freeman's Marsh is one of the rare pieces of southern England combining chalk streams and alkaline marsh land. In recent centuries little attempt was made to interfere with the natural plain and water courses and there has never been any cultivation within the area. There has been management that is essential to control injurious weeds and river work to maintain the water courses, and the benefit of doubtful management and husbandry has been the legacy of unimproved marsh and pasture land.
The northern part of Freeman's Marsh was registered with English Nature as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in 1990, recognising the exceptional habitat for both wild flowers, birds and water voles. Much of Freeman's Marsh is technically herb-poor semi-improved permanent pasture, but the area is known for its healthy populations of water vole, brown trout and grayling. Otters are also resident in the area (2010). The SSSI area of Freeman's Marsh has examples of local rarities such as Bogbean, Flat Sedge as well as a wide variety of marshland wild flowers including orchids.
Along with the Lower Common (east of Denford Bridge), it was entered into a 10-year Higher Level Stewardship Scheme contract with Natural England in May 2008. There is now an agreed long term management plan aimed at protecting the natural environment and the area's biodiversity.
2010 was the third summer under the agreement. Much work has been done to restore the area's wildlife - with more works to be carried out in 2010-2011. Follow this link for further details of the 2009-11 wildlife restoration work.
Freeman's Marsh is a splendid site for seeing unusual birds, including green sandpiper, water rail, snipe, jack snipe, kingfisher, and, in mid December 2010, a glossy ibis and waxwings. Little egrets began to appear from 2007. In May 2011 there was a pair of Chinese Swan Geese happily joining a family of Canada Geese.
In March 2015 the Town & Manor were able to purchase Hungerford Marsh from the Susman family for c.£220,000.
The land sits between Freeman's Marsh, the canal and the western edge of the town.
It is already registered as SSSI, and it will remain under the management of the current tenants, the Berks, Bucks and Oxon Wildlife Trust (BBOWT).
The site, which covers and area of almost 28 acres and includes a wild trout fishery, is a rich mix of water meadows, reeedbeds, damp scrubland and patches of woodland.
Colourful wetland wild flowers include yellow iris, ragged-robin, southern marsh orchid, fen bedstra and marsh marigolds.
Around 120 different bird species including heron, kingfisher and grasshopper warbler have been recorded and the area is one of the last strongholds of the threatened water-vole.
Cobbler’s Lock (lock 72) on the Kennet and Avon Canal, is Hungerford’s most westerly lock heading towards Froxfield, just
upstream from Marsh Lock and downstream from Picket Field Lock.
For many years it was locally referred to as Pocock’s lock as the cottage there was occupied by John Pocock, a lockkeeper who worked for many years for The British Waterways Board (BWB). When John died it fell into disrepair and John’s splendid garden became a jungle.
The cottage was sold by the British Waterways Board in 2011 for £186,000 and in 2015 for £186,000 before being fully renovated. It is said to have sold in 2022 for more than £600,000.
Just west of Cobbler's lock and cottage is a brick-built triple-arched aqueduct carrying the Kennet and Avon Canal over the river Dun. This lies on the boundary of the Town and Manor property, and during Beating the Bounds, keen followers are known to crawl through it if water conditions are appropriate.
This "up and over" footbridge over the canal just west of the river Dun aqueduct was installed in 1998 following a successful campaign by the West Berkshire Ramblers group. It replaces a much earlier swing bridge that was removed when the canal was restored. and the narrows for that can just be seen nearby.
The site is adjacent to the site for the proposed Hungerford Marina.
Barrack Field footbridge (with thanks to Dr Jimmy Whittaker)
(With thanks to Dr Jimmy Whitaker): In 1981, more than 50 people gathered at a dedication ceremony performed by the Reverend Richard Kingsbury for a new wooden footbridge across an arm of the River Dun. Located on a path running between Hopgrass Farm and Marsh Lock, the footbridge was provided by the Walter family in memory of Albert D. Walter, known affectionately as “Wink.” Wink lived on the marsh for many years, but lost his life in September 1944 when he took part with the Airborne 10th Parachute Regiment in the Arnhem assault on the Rhine Crossing.
Albert Walker joined the army in 1940 and initially served with the Royal Berkshire Regiment before transferring to the Paras.
An account of the action in which he was killed is given by former Pte. George Taylor, in the book by Martin Middlebrook “Arnhem 1944: The Airborne Battle”:
Initially, the advanced guard had landed on the 17th September with the 10th Para dropping on the 18th over drop zone “Y” at Gingle Heath, the area that Pte. Dixon and the KOSB had been holding the day before. During the night and early morning of the 19th, they moved in the direction of Arnhem to occupy the high ground on the North West of the town. Their movement was blocked by strong units of “Hohenstaufen” 9th SS Panzer Division on the crossroads near De Leeren Hotel at the Amsterdamse Weg.
As we have seen in the report about Dixon, Allied Intelligence had ignored the evidence of these large German formations in the area. Now bloody fighting was taking a heavy toll as much hand to hand combat took place. Sections were dispersed, killed, wounded to taken prisoner.
Pte. Albert Walter aged 30 years died sometime during Tuesday’s fighting and was initially buried at the side of the road at Amsterdamse Weg before being moved to the Arnhem /Oosterbeek War Cemetery.
In July 2020 the memorial seat which had been installed on the marsh in 2000 was restored by Martin Taylor of Eddington. See "Seat renovated for a 'fallen comrade' - NWN, 23 Jul 2020.
In December 2020, during the Covid-19 pandemic, a large group of volunteers planted 840 sappling trees and bushes in Westbrook, south of the railway line, as part of the large "Lockdown Wood" project set up by Newbury Friends of the Earth, assisted locally by HEAT(Hungerford Environmental Action Team) and St Lawrence's Church. These were planted in an area where the previous ash trees had to be felled after succombing to ash dieback disease. You can see the YouTube video here.
- Richard and Margery Frankum, The Birds & Plants of Freemen's (sic!) Marsh, Hungerford, 1970-74, (Also Supplement covering 1975-79)
- E.L. (Jim) Davis, The Story of an Ancient Fishery, 1978